Crooked Pencil Article of the Week: "Surfs Up" by Peace24

"Standing in sunshine where water meets land.
Watching breakers rushing in as fast as they can.
The scent on the breeze so familiar, the salt of the sea.
Foam swirling with the tide, moving ever closer to me.
Waiting, watching, looking for the sets, finding the perfect wave to catch.
On pivot point, arms out stretched, palms down, all without sound.
Up, up , up, moving with the wave, finding the tube, getting my groove.
Feeling the power, pushing, propelling, lost in the mist, just the me and the sea. Shooting the curl, gaining momentum, moving back out into the sun.
Riding the crest, getting a floater off the curling lip, whoa what a trip.
Gliding the rest of the way in, exhilarated, freeing, beats anything.
Looking for the next roll of sets, ready to begin the ride all over again."